The Itinerary...Solo in the Azores (Part II)
- Jul 31
- 10 min read
Now that it’s the end of July and I’ve just wrapped up my summer road trip with the boys, it is officially time to close out the story of my solo trip to the Azores.
I’ve already written about why this solo journey was so important to me and shared my system for saving money during the planning phase. But now we are getting into the real meat of the trip: what I actually saw, what I did after all that planning, and what the whole experience felt like.
It’s also worth talking about the unseen costs of travel—how eating out quickly adds up and how little trinkets to treat ourselves can creep into the budget. That’s precisely why I like to maximize my cost savings on the front end, employ a few key food strategies along the way, and then just truly enjoy eating and buying gifts during the trip without going crazy.
So, here we go!
Day 1: Plane Diversions, Volcanic Springs, and Tuka Tula
I won't lie and say I felt super at ease driving to the airport. It wasn’t that I was unfamiliar with the drive to ATL or nervous about driving it alone—it was just that overwhelming mental checklist: Did I pack everything? Is the house locked? Once you hit the highway, there is no turning back.
The drive down was smooth until I hit the dreaded Atlanta traffic. I legitimately thought my time was up when I had to swerve onto the median to avoid people slamming on their brakes from tailgating! That gave me enough of an adrenaline spike to carry me straight to the remote parking lot.
(Budget Tip: I prefer remote lots with frequent shuttles to save money, or Park-Stay-Fly hotel deals. The bonus of hitting traffic this time was that the uncovered lot was full, so I got auto-upgraded to covered parking for free!)
Thanks to my Chase Sapphire Preferred Card, TSA PreCheck was seamless. For the flight itself, I used a perk from my Amex Hilton card—a flight credit that I redeemed for an inflight cheese plate and sparkling wine so I could feel a little bougie.
The flight was smooth until it was time to land in Ponta Delgada...
As we approached, it was stunning to see the island come into view, but it was freaking windy. You could feel the plane swaying back and forth as it approached the runway. Just as we were about to touch down, the pilot drastically pulled up. I instinctively grabbed the hand of the woman next to me and held on for dear life until we were rerouted to a neighboring island, Terceira. (Looking back, it was deeply appropriate that her name was Angel!)
Terceira happens to be a refueling station for the US and Portuguese Air Forces, so there were military planes lining the strip. After a few hours on the tarmac and resolving a medical emergency on board, we made a second landing attempt in Ponta Delgada. Still windy, but manageable.
The approach into Ponta Delgada before our sudden detour. Just one of the military planes I saw as we landed on Terceira.
Thankfully, the car rental staff were aware of the flight delay and had my little Nissan Juke ready to roll.
I hit the road ready for downtown Ponta Delgada until I realized a critical detail: I had never driven in a European country and hadn't thought to review international road signs or metric conversions. A quick pullover and a frantic Google search later, I was on my way again.
When I reached town, I was honestly too chicken-shit to attempt parallel parking in the narrow streets, so I drove away with my tail between my legs to explore the countryside instead.
My first official stop was the hot springs at Caldeira Velha. This was thankfully easily accessible with plenty of parking. After a short hike up to the springs and a quick change in the rustic locker area, I was relaxing in the remote, thermal waters, melting away the stress of travel. The springs were a bit rust-colored and warm rather than scorching, but it felt amazing and wasn't crowded. I even snuck off to the waterfall for a moment of reflection—and attempted to take solo pictures, which made me feel ridiculously stupid setting up a tripod!
Once changed into fresh clothes and a jacket (the wind and cloud cover made it chilly), I hunted down food in Ribeira Grande at Tuka Tula. This was my first real exposure to local island food:
A local Especial beer
Fresh queso fresco (almost like a super-fresh mozzarella) with local piri-piri pepper sauce and fresh bread
Crispy croquettes
A local ice cream tasting to cap it off
Full to the brim and sleepy-eyed, I checked into the DoubleTree by Hilton Lagoa Azores. Thanks to my Diamond status, I got free access to the spa and gym, a free welcome drink, free breakfast everyday (which was a tummy filler, money saver, and international breakfast buffets are just next level!) and because it happened to be International Women's Day, I was greeted with a fresh flower.
Even better: a pre-arrival email to the staff paid off! I walked into my room to find a platter of desserts, a bottle of sparkling wine, a welcome note, and a flower-adorned bed. I felt like a travel princess. I showered off, wrapped up in a lush robe, and passed out for a "quick" nap... that turned into a five-hour knockout.
I woke up hungry, went downstairs for a light bite of amazing beef carpaccio, and went right back to sleep for the night.
Day 1 Ledger:
$12 - Caldeira Velha Entry & Locker
$36 - Lunch at TukaTula
$21 - Late Night Hotel Bite
Day 2: Volcanic Lakes, Pineapples, and Anise Liqueur
This day turned out to be the best money I spent the entire trip.
Normally, I avoid group tours because you are bound to someone else's schedule. When traveling with three young kids, it’s hard to predict if the timing will work or if they’ll lose interest. But going solo made a guided tour the absolute best way to cover the island’s major highlights.
Since I was the first pickup and last drop-off, I got to chat one-on-one with the guide. Our itinerary was stacked:
Santo António Pineapple Plantations: I learned that Azorean pineapples take up to five years to grow inside traditional glass greenhouses and are much smaller than the varieties we get in the US.
Lagoa das Sete Cidades: The massive central volcanic crater containing the famous twin lakes—one vibrant green (Lagoa Verde) and one deep blue (Lagoa Azul).
Igreja de São Nicolau: A stunning church with classic white-and-gray Azorean stonework.
Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado: Sweeping coastal views overlooking the village of Mosteiros.
Lunch was an incredible local buffet where I sampled fresh fish, regional cheeses, local wine, and finished with group shots of house-made pineapple, honey, and tangerine liqueurs.
We wrapped up the afternoon in Ribeira Grande with a stop at the Mulher de Capote distillery, where I bought a bottle of their famous anise liqueur featuring actual crystallized sugar inside the bottle.
After visiting the beach and stopping by a local market for cheese, jams, canned tuna, and fresh bread, I headed back to the hotel. I spent the evening on my balcony, sipping sparkling wine, eating local snacks, and reading as the sun went down. Nearly 10 hours of exploring—I was exhausted and happy.
Day 2 Ledger:
$18 - Licor de Anis Souvenir
$30 - Market Haul of cheese, jams, tuna and bread
Day 3: Tea Plantations, Volcanic Stew, and Hot Springs
Assuming I would see the same tour group from Day 2, I hadn't said a formal goodbye. Surprise! When the van pulled up, I was the last person loaded into a completely new group. But I quickly made friends—including two fellow travelers from right down the road in Chattanooga!
Our stops for the day:
Nossa Senhora da Paz Chapel: Famous for its striking 10-landing staircase where each landing represents the Lord's Prayer and the steps represent the Hail Marys of the Rosary.
Queijadas da Vila Franca do Campo: We stopped to sample bolo lêvedo—a slightly sweet, powdered-sugar-dusted hybrid between a soft sweet bread and an English muffin. The chocolate-filled ones were incredible.
Furnas: We watched our lunch (Cozido das Furnas) being pulled straight out of the ground where it cooks for hours underground using pure geothermal volcanic steam! It was a protein-packed paradise of slow-cooked meats and vegetables.
Parque Terra Nostra: A botanical garden featuring thermal hot springs. The main pool is heavy in iron, giving it a distinct mustard-brown color. I opted to skip the muddy water and instead walked the manicured botanical paths.
Gorreana Tea Plantation: Europe’s oldest continuously operating tea plantation. We sampled fresh teas and wandered through the fields to see vintage 19th-century machinery still actively processing leaves.
Day 3 Ledger:
$17 - Queijadas Pastries (me + souvenirs)
$17 - Parque Terra Nostra Entrance
Day 4: Orcas, Waterfalls, and Making Friends
Day 4 was my first self-guided solo day. Because the tour groups had already covered so much ground efficiently, I felt total freedom to deviate from my itinerary, sleep in, and take things slowly.
However, I did have one pre-scheduled excursion: Whale Watching.
Going solo on a boat tour pushed me out of my comfort zone because they asked us to line up in pairs to board. I ended up pairing up with another solo traveler, Angela. We clicked instantly, sat together, swapped photo duties, and spent the rest of the day exploring the island together!
The wildlife sightings were unbelievable:
A family pod of Killer Whales (a male, female, and a baby)
A massive pod of dolphins
A Sperm Whale surfacing near the boat
Even the marine biologists leading the tour were losing their minds—Orcas rarely migrate through this area so early in the season.
After returning to land, Angela and I grabbed a quick lunch at the docks, hiked to a nearby waterfall, and wrapped up the night at Cais 20 for Marisco com Arroz (seafood rice) and cinnamon ice cream.
Day 4 Ledger:
$3 - Dock lunch
$50 Shared wine, dinner and dessert at Cais 20
Day 5: Smash Burgers, Gin & Tonics, and Local Brews
This was my true "zero-agenda" solo day. Cooler weather and high ocean surf had me cancel the surfing lessons I had originally planned, so I embraced a lazy morning.
I drove out to Ponta da Ferraria, a coastal area formed by ancient volcanic lava flows where thermal vents mix directly with crashing ocean waves. I hiked down the rocky paths, explored the natural lava bridges, and watched the tide crash against the black rock.
Next, I kicked off my own self-guided tasting tour:
Aqueduto do Carvão: Took a brief scenic stop at the mossy stone aqueduct.
Vulcania & Azores Brewing Company: Sampled flights of local craft beers, flatbreads, and seasoned beans.
Salto do Cabrito Food Truck: Right at the trailhead of this waterfall hike sits a random food truck serving two things: Smash burgers and Gin & Tonics. (They take their local cattle seriously on the island!). I devoured a burger, walked down to the falls sipping a G&T, and hiked back up feeling great.
Day 5 Ledger:
$23.50 - Vulcana Brewery - flight, finger food and to-go beer
$15 - Azores Brewing - beer flight, bean snack and to-go beer
$19 - Salto do Cabrito Smash Truck - smashburger and gin&tonic
$19 - Hotel night cap and snack
Day 6: Beekeeping, Horseback Riding, and Grocery Stacking
My final full day combined two totally unique experiences.
The morning started on the backroads navigating to an artisanal beekeeping farm. A small group of us suited up in full protective gear, walked the property, and inspected the active hives. Learning about colony structure and honey production was fascinating—right up until the bees worked themselves into a frenzy and began swarming us! We calmly (and swiftly!) walked back to the farmhouse to taste raw honeys and honey lemonade.
With a few hours to kill before my afternoon excursion, I hit the local Continente Modelo grocery store to stock up on food souvenirs to bring back for the boys, my parents, and friends:
Gourmet canned Azorean tuna
Local piri-piri sauces
Regional teas and candies
High-protein snacks for the flight home
My afternoon wrapped up at a local equestrian farm for horseback riding. I hadn't ridden a horse in nearly 30 years, so being up that high was a bit daunting. When the guide instructed us to trot, I couldn't for the life of me figure out how to post or balance my hips—it was a hilarious failure, but riding through the hills overlooking Ponta Delgada was worth every awkward bump.
Day 6 Ledger:
$50 - Horseback riding excursion
$17 - Farm Honey Purchase
$33 - Grocery Store Souvenir Haul
Last Day: Hidden Factories, Steak Sandwiches, and the Journey Home
My final day was all about packing up, taking slow coastal drives, and soaking up the remaining atmosphere before my late afternoon flight.
I drove along the coast, pulling over at scenic miradouros (viewpoints) whenever the mood struck. My favorite off-the-beaten-path find was the abandoned power plant, Fábrica da Cidade. I hiked the overgrown trail alongside a lovely traveler from Canada, taking in the moss-covered stone ruins.
Before heading to the airport, I finally spent time exploring downtown Ponta Delgada on foot. Its signature black volcanic basalt and white limestone mosaic streets are gorgeous. I stopped at a local steakhouse for lunch and ordered a traditional Azorean steak sandwich. I was in such food bliss (and a slight time crunch) that I completely forgot to take a picture, but now I fully understand why Azorean beef has a global reputation!
After refueling the rental car, I headed to the airport. (Pro tip: Give yourself way more than an hour at the Ponta Delgada airport! The customs line for international departures was massive, and they had to call our flight to the front of the line to get us through).
I caught my flight to JFK, stayed overnight at an airport hotel, and flew back to Atlanta the next morning to make the final drive home to Tennessee.
Final day's ledger:
$51 - Rental Car Gas Refill
$15 - Azorean Steak Sandwich & Beer
Reflections 4 Months Later
Writing this four months after returning, some of the fine details have naturally become a bit hazy (shame on me as a travel blogger!). But the feeling of those moments hasn't faded at all.
Stepping out of my comfort zone—whether that was navigating international roads, initiating conversations with strangers, setting up a camera tripod for selfies, or simply giving myself permission to sit quietly and do absolutely nothing—is what made this trip a cornerstone moment in my personal journey.
If you made it through this entire epic saga, thank you for reading. This may have been my first solo international trip of this chapter, but it certainly won't be my last.
xoxo Sam
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